PARGA, GREECE. 2022
PARGA, GREECE
2022
After TWO pushbacks, due to Covid, we finally got away to Parga, on mainland Greece. It's about an hour's drive from Preveza airport in the south, or the same from Corfu, in the North.
It was our second time here, as we'd been three years previously and immediately booked to go back! Most people you meet have been multiple times, as it's such a great place. With there being no high rise hotels, and no 'all inclusive' (as far as I'm aware), the local cafes and restaurants, of which there are HUNDREDS to choose from, thrive. Everyone has their favourites, but with so many to choose from, and the quality so high, it doesn't really matter. We didn't have one bad meal, but our favourites are Golfo Beach Taverna, right on Piso Krioneri, for just chillin', Dokos Taverna for the Greek nights, and far and away (but that's in OUR opinion), for views, food & cocktails, it HAS to be the Med bar. You'll see why later in the blog.
Firstly, this Covid mess had caused huge disruption in many areas, and staff shortages were rife at the airports. But, ever one to lend a hand, I stepped up to the plate!
After a hairy taxi ride from the airport, we just dropped our cases at our hotel and took an evening stroll along the long promenade of the main beach.
This is a panorama of the main Krioneri beach in the early evening.
Click on the picture for the full effect.
Most nights see a beautiful sunset. Unfortunately, you can't see the actual sun, as it drops behind the headland, but the effect is still great!
Parga promenade at night, with the castle illuminated - what's not to love?
The hustle and bustle of the prom' in the evening.
The main square, with it's huge, iconic anchor.
Panagia island, just off the main beach. It's a magnet for explorers, as it's easily swimmable. As is usual on these small islands, there is a small church, lit up at night. There are actually two on Panagia.
Night-time panorama.
Again, click on the picture to expand and get full effect.
Parga castle, another must do, with great views over Parga and Valtos beach, the other side of the headland.
The remains of the castle.
These scooters mopeds and, sometimes big muscle bikes, are the main mode of transport. No-one seems to wear any protective clothes or helmets - how do the authorities allow this? I cringe to think how many skin grafts must go on at local hospitals!
They carry everything - shopping, kids, gas canisters - you name it!
What do you see here? I see a mobile bomb!
Safari bar, another of our favourites.
When you buy a large beer here, you get a little meze plate of food free.
This was so tasty- I went inside and paid for two more plates.
This practice is also exercised at the Friends meeting house, another of our favourites.
You can spend the best part of a day just exploring the maze of little back streets and alleyways.
Some of the flowers just take your breath away
Lots and lots of little shops and cafes/bars. It makes you wonder how some of them, that are particularly tucked away, can make a living.
Retail therapy - always good for the soul.
The small harbour, where the fishing boats lie over, and the pier, from where the trip and water taxi boats leave for Valtos and Lichnos.
Parga castle. Well worth a walk up - in fact lots of people do it several times during their holiday- we did.
These green beetles were everywhere, but they didn't bother you - or bite!
If you're around town, and especially in certain restaurants, you will meet this lady - Chakka Chakka lady! She tries to sell you roses- two for five euros, and she particularly likes to cuddle up to the men, pressing her (very) ample bosom on them! #metoo
Looking across Parga bay, you can see Agia Eleni church perched on top of the hill. This was high on our list of 'to-do's'.
You can also see the second of two churches on Panagia island.
If you wondered, this is called 'Blue Bar'.
All of the bars on North/Northeast side of Parga have these great views.
It's a shame the sun sets behind you though :-(
BUT! go to the Med Bar at sunset, & be amazed!
Gates to Parga Castle.
Click on the picture.
Several views from the castle grounds.
Everyone takes this picture - this archway is a favourite.
At the top. The path is rough, so wear proper shoes or trainers.
As you get to the top, Valtos beach comes into view.
On the far hillside is Ali Pasha's castle. Lots of history here, and there's a road train that goes regularly from Krioneri beach. It's an interesting trip, and costs about 8 euros.
Valtos beach.
Old cannon in the castle yard.
One of our favourite lunch stops, if going to the top of Parga.
This is Taverna Stephanos. Great views, and the BEST stuffed vine leaves!
The view of the Valtos side of Parga Castle, from Taverna Stephanos.
You do see some very old, dilapidated bikes in Greece, but I think this one was beyond saving :-)
This thing was about the size of my thumb!😲
That evening, we decided on a seafood menu. Souli is one of the best restaurants for seafood - however, it's not cheap. Because of this, you can usually get a table when most other places are full.
I'd seen a blue crab linguine on the menu, and was intrigued. I have to say, it was divine!
My wife Sue had the King Prawn risotto,
which she also enjoyed.
PART TWO - THE WALK THROUGH THE OLIVE GROVES TO LICHNOS,
VIA AGIA ELENI CHURCH.
Make no mistake, the walk over to Lichnos beach is challenging, especially on a hot day (which today was). We had tried to do this walk the first time we came, but got a little lost, so abandoned it. This time Sue had the map and app - so off we set early on.
The first small church you get to is Parekklḗsi, a welcome respite from the strong sunshine. It's very simple inside.
We were fortunate to be able to photograph this newly-emerged one on a fence, expanding his wings, ready for his maiden flight.
As you climb, the views just get better and better.
Some very interesting, and old, murals on the wall.
Eventually, after a long and stiff climb, we reached our goal - Agia Eleni church. A little more ornate than Parekklḗsi
Despite asking Google and our hotel owner, we couldn't find much information about when the church was built, or how high it is.
The courtyard, viewed from inside the cool of the church.
It feels like you're sitting on top of the world here!
A swing around the courtyard.
Click on video to play.
But - look at the video - the surrounding mountains dwarf our position.
Absolutely stunning views over Parga and Valtos, and a perfect day for it. This was my favourite picture of the whole holiday.
Our first view of Lichnos- still quite a way to go!
After swimming to cool down, and a lie down to rest and await the ferry, we boarded on the hour.
It's a lovely, cool and interesting trip back, and I recommend it. I'm not sure we could have faced the walk back, as it was still very hot.
What a cracking little cabin - really away from it all.
Another church - in Greece, ALWAYS a church!
Yet another one.
....and another
This is one of two little churches on Panagia island.
We walked round to Piso Krioneri and hired sunbeds. They will bring you drink and food, but we decided to walk up to the Golfo taverna to eat.
Panorama videos of the view from the top.
After spending quite a time on the top, we set off into the cooler shade of the olive groves. We still had quite a bit of climbing to do before the path finally started to descend to Lichnos.
The beach finally comes into view. A warning here - a lot of guides say to walk down the path through some large steel gates, and down through the olive groves.
Click on picture to open map.
The owner has now decided NOT to allow people to use that path, and there's a sign on the gates saying PRIVATE. Instead, you should travel inland with the track until you meet the road going down to Lichnos. This extends the walk, and is not as pretty. In our case, we decided to wing it and walk down the forbidden path. We DID see a guy in the grove, and I shouted a cheery hello in Greek. I was rewarded with a grunt (but at least he didn't make us go back).
If you turn the sound up, you can hear the cicadas in the olive groves.
When we got to the beach, the sand was too hot to stand on in bare feet, so we ducked into the first beach bar. It was a big disappointment, and the service was slow (we were VERY thirsty) and the beer wasn't cold, but at least we were out of the sun :-(
For just six euros each, the ferry back to Krioneri is a great option. You also sea the coast from a different perspective.
We ordered a pizza - it was the WEIRDEST pizza we've ever had!! The food here is usually top notch, but I'd not order this again. It had a biscuity, crumbly base, which just wasn't right.
The view takes a bit of beating though.
Ham croquette sort of thing - really tasty.
I could live on this - the flavours were just beautiful!
There was a 'plague' of these moths while we were there. Actually, we were told they were far worse the week before.
We didn't actually mind them.
A kebab type of thing, again, really tasty.
Just love the Golfo taverna at night, so romantic!
Awful picture of my rice dish, but
Well, firstly the place looks like some alien spaceship perched on the cliffs. It's classically understated, with lots of glass and, of course, stunning views. The cocktails are supposed to be the best in Parga, and we can confirm that they are!
Sorry it's a bad picture, but we decided to share a salad for starters, and save the blowout for dinner one night. I can say, without a doubt, this was the BEST salad I have EVER had! The flavours were complex, but really complimentary. Obviously put together by someone who really knew what they were doing.
Parga beach and town are over that hill beyond the houses.
The weather can change in an instant, mainly because of the mountains and we had a short, sharp, heavy shower JUST as we left the beach (you could see it coming).
A good excuse for a cocktail!
No sooner had it arrived, than it left off, and within 20 minutes, you'd never know that it had rained.
The following day was just a beach & chill day, due to the heat and our exertions the previous day.
That night, we met up with friends Mike and Adrienne for a meal at their hotel, the Five Senses. It was a cracking night, with great food, and great music. I think we overdid the Metaxa though (and I blame Mike).
Kebabs, burgers, Moussaka, - everything was scrumptious!
the flavour was super!
Simplicity, but done with skill and know-how.
While on the subject of food, we'd been told by many people that we MUST try the Med bar. The thing is, it's right on the hilltop above Parga, on the way to Valtos beach, and when it's hot - you really don't fancy uphill! This lunchtime, it wasn't too bad, so off we set to see what the fuss was all about.
That's Parga castle over our shoulder.
There are two outside areas, this one has a pool!
If you looked right, the view is a panorama of Valtos beach.
By the time we reached the coach park -we were all agog at this strange phenomenon.
You can read all about the monasteries (and it's well worth reading) here on the official site;
The beautiful courtyard would, I imagine, be a place of great peace, without all the visitors. The entrance fee is only three euros, but the whole trip cost 75 each.
The bridge you have to cross for access.
In the courtyards, lovely flower displays.
Inside the monastery, exquisite murals on the walls and ceilings.
All of them tell the Christian story which, if you use a guide, is well explained.
I mean- just gravity defying!
A video of the amazing view.
In Greece, it's all about the music and dancing
PART THREE
INCREDIBLE METEORA.
When we first went to Parga, we shunned the trip to Meteora because it's a whole day, most of which is spent on the coach. It's about a five hour trip each way. Yes - that sounds awful, but the coaches are comfortable, they do comfort stops, and best of all, are air conditioned. I won't go on about it, suffice to say it's an unbelievable place, and I would recommend ANYONE who get the opportunity to go! It was slightly hazy the day we went, and also far too hot, but I'm still glad we did it. If you want to get the full feeling of the place, look at this drone footage.
After the usual landscape of Greece, you are suddenly confronted with these huge natural pillars. They certainly don't look natural, as they appear (and disappear) so suddenly in the landscape.
WHY the monks thought it was a good idea to build atop these monoliths, only they know!
As the coach approached the area, people (including us) got more and more excited.
Meteora official site
The astonishing fact is, that every piece of building material, every brick, tile, window, was hoisted up on ropes in the beginning. The only access was by ladders, which the monks would pull up if they were threatened. At one point, they were denied bell ringing but, not to be outdone, created this special 'bell' which rang so quietly that it couldn't be heard beyond the monastery. It was struck by a suspended log.
The old kitchen. The hundreds (originally) of monks were all fed from here.
This first one we visited, founded in around 1340, is the Great Meteoron.
Here, we are looking across to Rousanou monastery.
The sheer scale of the place takes your breath away.
This one was also part of the visit. We only had time to visit the two, but we were amazed at the place!
That all this could be built by hand!!
Rousanou
Time for THAT picture :-)
On Piso Krioneri
(and food, and drink......)
Here at the Golfo Taverna, it's no different on their Greek night.
Petros taverna was a short walk from our apartment. It's always crowded, so can be difficult to get a walk-in table. However, there's a reason for that - the food is some of the best in Parga (except maybe for the Med bar). This is their mixed grill.
I love the way they light up certain things at night.
This palm was a particular favourite.
Most places give you a complimentary shot after your meal.
These were actually called 'blow job' - (don't ask)
But first - one of their amazing salads.
We saved the best until last. On our last night, we hit the Med bar! We took a short taxi ride there to save arriving in a muck sweat! It was in the mid thirties!
This was part of the menu. However, when we came for a cocktail, I had seen a rack of ribs go out, so my mind was already made up.
Orange - on a SALAD???
I tell you, it was exquisite!
We ate at just the right time, as we got the daylight views then, as we ate, the sun set and we got a different perspective on things.
How beautiful is this dish?
And this - you really could have it framed.
A work of visual AND culinary art.
My advice - GO HUNGRY!
A complimentary pot of loveliness.
One happy lady, and two of the famous cocktails.
Night-time view over Valtos beach.
Looking the other way, Parga castle,
Daytime panorama from the Med bar.
Night-time panorama, with cocktails.
which is all lit up at night.
I'll pass - but he's bloody good at his job!
Always a joy, and a great way to finish an evening, walking the back streets. Parga is a REALLY safe place, and always feels that way too.
I do wonder at what sort of life the shopkeepers have.
I just LOVE that this guy was; 'dancing like no-one's watching' 💓
They seem to be open all hours!
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Any big, Greek holiday is not complete without the
obligatory plate-smashing! They say (and I'd agree) that Dokos Taverna is the best place for this.
And so, we made our way back, for our last night 😢
WHAT a place - WHAT a holiday - I'm sure, like most people, we will return again. This time was much, much busier than our first visit in October 2019, but that's to be expected for lots of reasons. Hopefully, the crowds have replenished the traders coffers, and status quo can return to our little bit of 'Parga-dise'.
💓
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